My meal at Osteria Marco covered a lot of bases. I started with burrata, an Italian cheese, then went on to seafood. The dish below is Frutti di Mare or Fruit of the Sea, which is a fitting name because it includes crab, shrimp, calamari, and lobster. All in one dish! It was served cold, with a binding of an aioli (kind of like mayonnaise) and chickpea paste. The red spots are a lobster-and-red-pepper oil.

Frutti de Mare at Osteria Marco

The onions and celery made this almost like a seafood-salad experience, but one that had whole calamari and little tentacles in it. Because it was cold, it reminded me a bit of ceviche, but it wasn’t nearly as acidic as that dish is. The flavor here was mostly in the chickpea binding, because it was hard to distinguish the individual flavors of each specific type of seafood. It was definitely fresh, but not remarkable to me. I didn’t feel like I was eating lobster, or crab, or calamari.

Seafood on a fork

To follow up my seafood, I had.. pizza. It’s an unusual choice to be sure, but this restaurant is famous for their gourmet pizza selection, so I dove in. I wanted to eat something truly unusual, and though I was originally thinking of the Carbonara, which is a pizza with pancetta and egg on it, I ended up with the fig and prosciutto pizza. I like figs, and it seemed vaguely healthy with some fruit on it. (Look, honestly, I don’t know what I was thinking.)

When I look at this picture, I see a normal pizza with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, and maybe sausage or mushrooms. However, those ‘tomatoes’ are actually figs, that cheese is goat cheese and fontina, the brown lumps are caramelized onions, and the shavings are prosciuttio, or pork. Regardless of the ingredients, this is my favorite photo of this set and probably my best pizza photo to date.

Fig and Prosciutto Pizza at Osteria Marco

After eating a whole puck of burrata and a similarly sized serving of the frutti di mare, I was a little too full. The sweetness of the fig was just not the right pairing for those things, either. I didn’t want sweet after the rich, clean taste of cheese, then the briny taste of seafood. I wanted earthy, savory, salty pizza. I should have gotten a sausage pie, basically. Well, I learned a lesson that day – I don’t like sweet pizza.

A slice of gourmet pizza

You may have noticed the above picture seems to have a bite taken out of the crust. I assure you that I did not eat my pizza on the wrong-end, then hastily take a picture of it. Here’s that extra piece of crust on the pie plate. I would like this picture so much more without it; if the white plate was cleaner, this would be a great photo.

See, didn't take a bite out of that slice

Chocolate Nutella Cake at Osteria Marco

I said I was too full to enjoy the pizza, and indeed, I ate about two mini slices and picked at a third. However, nothing would keep me from trying out dessert, so I plowed ahead and ordered this chocolate cake. It’s a hazelnut torte with nutella syrup on the edges and vanilla gelato. I hoped the nutella would make it interesting, or that the hazelnut, a flavor I love, would shine through, but it was your standard dense chocolate cake. The gelato was unremarkable. I left most of this dessert on the plate.

In its defense, I don’t like chocolate cake. I like cake as a general rule, so if I see cake, I’ll order it, but over and over again, I have found that chocolate cake just doesn’t do it for me. It overwhelms all other flavors, it is often dry, and its often served icing- and filling-free. I need to just accept this and stop ordering it but the rest of the menu is often no better. I always want dessert, but never what’s on the menu. Sigh.

Back to the photography, I do like the picture, but wish I had paid more attention to the edge of the table in the upper left corner. I’m pleased with this from a personal perspective, because the light was fading fast when I took this shot, and subsequent photos were blurry, so I am glad this one came through.

Osteria Marco is another restaurant in Denver’s Larimer Square. They focus on casual Italian food, which really means gourmet pizza. The owner has several other restaurants with more upscale tastes, so this one was meant to have a more convivial atmosphere to go with the high-quality food. I don’t know if they really managed that. Denver as a whole is a lot more casual than what I am used to in NYC, and everyone in Larimer was nicely dressed anyway. Yes, people were gabbing and laughing, but I think they would have done so at any other restaurant on the block.

I ordered the burrata as my appetizer. Burrata is a thin skin of mozzarella, filled with a soft mixture of mozzarella and cream. It was invented in Italy partially to get rid of leftover mozzarella. I’ve had it just once before from Whole Foods in NYC. It was freshly made but sat on my desk at work for a few hours, unrefrigerated, and when I got home and tried it, it was creamy but had an underlying bitterness. The cheese is supposed to keep for 24 hours so I wasn’t sure if that was just part of its flavor profile. Osteria Marco’s burrata is made in-house so it was guaranteed to be as fresh as can be.

I really love the wooden slats in this photo; it really changes the tone of the photograph. As you can see, they served the cheese with olive oil and toasted, rustic bread.

Burrata at Osteria Marco

The cheese was topped with pepper, which I adore, and some olive oil. Freshly ground pepper has the most intoxicating smell. I grew up smelling table pepper and, as a result, never added it to anything, but once I got a whiff of toasted peppercorns from a grinder, I was sold.

Burrata with olive oil and pepper

The char on this bread is simply gorgeous. The whole thing has such a delightfully rustic look; the flour dusted on its side, the wide-open crumb, the thick slices. This is the way to serve bread at an Italian place! I don’t even like bread that much.

Rustic bread

I mentioned above that the burrata I had a few months ago was slightly bitter. I braced myself when trying Osteria’s, but it was perfect. Creamy, delightful, clean-tasting. Not a trace of unpleasantness in it. It was much like eating a fresh ricotta or cottage cheese, but with a smoother texture. I’m a sucker for soft, creamy mouthfeels, which is why I love melted cheese, melted icecream, and frosting. This cheese put me in eyes-closed, fully-concentrating-on-this-wonderful-flavor mode, which happens rarely. The only cheese that has done that for me consistently is, curiously, the mozzarella sticks at Johnny Carino’s. (I know that’s lame because it is a chain. The combo of breading, cheese, and that perfect spicy marinara sauce is what gets me, rather than the cheese itself.) I’ve had cheese at Per Se, Thomas Keller’s restaurant, that didn’t speak to me this much.

Burrata on a fork

I love the idea of the burrata on the bread because this bread was just so beautiful, but the hard crunch of the toasted edges paired with the creaminess of the cheese didn’t work for me. I loved this cheese for its texture, and I didn’t want anything obscuring that.

Burrata on toasted bread